Wadi Natrun

So we had another day trip today to Wadi Natrun, a popular pilgrimage site since before Christianity and a known stop in Jesus, Mary and Joseph's trip through Egypt. Wadi Natrun has since become the location of multiple Coptic monasteries, two of which we were lucky enough to visit.

Our first stop was the Monestary of St. Bishoy, named after a Coptic monk who supposedly carried Christ up a mountain while he was disguised as an old man. Despite the tradition of monks being burried in the cathedral in Cairo, St. Bishoy requested that his body be interred at the monastery and we saw more than a few Copts who had made pilgrimage to pray over his body.



The monastery itself was gorgeous - one of the greenest places I've seen in Egypt. We were given a tour by one of the monks who was kind enough to deal with all of our excessive questioning. It was interesting hearing how the monks live. The compound as a whole is self-sufficient with different monks assigned different labors such as farming, caring for livestock, and dealing with tourists. Despite the importance given to seclusion, the monastery has kept up with the times. Visitors of all faiths are always welcome and one monk's job is even running the monastery website.

We saw the long dry Martyr's Well, named after its waters were used to clean the monastery after a massacre, as well as the church housing two centuries old doors and an ancient pulpit preserved by the Edomites. With the advent of microphones the pulpit is no longer used, but it still stands positioned to deliver sermons to the masses. After the Church we toured the monks' austere cells and the old flour mill before sitting down to a lunch of ful. When given the choice to finish seeing the rest of the monastery or visit a second one, the group decided variety would be good for us, so we thanked our tour guide and loaded back on the buses.

The second monastery, The Monestary of the Holy Virgin Mary, was less accommodating. We weren't allowed past the church and the gift shop, but the entrance was still a spectacular view. I'm amazed at the architectural achievements of religious communities. All of the monasteries, even the ones we only drove past, were sprawling compounds of stone and crosses decorated with iconography of all types.



Our visit made me wonder what the recent Islamist victory in the elections will mean for Egypt's Copts. They're a significant minority, and an important part of the history of Egypt, but it's hard not to notice the religious lines that have been clearly drawn. I was surprised to find that many of the Muslim Egyptians who accompanied us on the trip, despite their many Christian (and Coptic) friends, were uncomfortable in the unfamiliar religious environment. It's a cultural division that would be hard to overcome under the best of circumstances, and those aren't the circumstances we're under today.

When we got back to Alexandria I did some shopping. In addition to a few clothing purchases (remind me to write a post about clothes someday soon), I also kept with the theme of the day and stopped by a Christian owned shop that sells a wide variety of Christmas paraphernalia. I bought some spray snow and some "surprise" gifts that you're supposed to shake up and throw on a table to get a surprise. I refuse to give in to my curiosity and see what that surprise is before the 25th. Being around all the Christmas themed bobbles felt like home. I wish it wasn't a waste of money to buy Christmas decorations, but it wouldn't be worth it when I'd only use them for one year. I'm not even going to be in my apartment for Christmas.

Speaking of which, for those of you who haven't heard I'll be spending my Christmas break (December 22-January 1) in Jordan. I'll write about it when I get back, but our itinerary already has me bouncing with excitement. We're even going to see the site of Jesus' baptism at Bethany beyond the Jordan on Christmas day. Since we're based out of a largely Christian town that day, I'm hoping there will be some festivities to share in, but we'll see.

Oh, and a food update: my new addiction is chocolate covered peanuts, just in case you were wondering.

That's all for now. I don't expect I'll write again before the new year what with travelling and all, but who knows. In case I don't, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all! I'll be thinking of you while we're four wheeling in the desert!